Launceston ~ 1 October 2002

Having one more day off before we went back to work we decided to go to Launceston. Only to visit the castle, use the internet and because it has been mentioned a lot in my book I am reading "Jamaica Inn" by Daphne Du Maurier. It was a miserable day, over cast and misty.

Launceston Castle is a fine ruin overlooking the town. It was the chief seat of Robert of Mortain, brother of William I. The view over the town is nothing but impressive. Even on a cloudy misty day like we experienced today. A cylindrical keep and ruined curtain walls are all that remain but it was well worth the visit.

We have enjoyed the for days off very much. Not long now until we finish work and enjoy the rest of our time here.

St. Michael's Mount and Minack Theatre ~ 30 September 2002

I was looking forward in visiting St. Michael's Mount. Because of the high tide we had to take the ferry across to the island. Described as Cornwall's jewel in it's crown we were not disappointed. Filled with 'giant' myth and legend, it's history is fascinating and rich. The view from the mount was breathtaking. Ian experienced the old 'sweaty' palms and feet {he has a fear of heights}.

The armoury room contained an impressive display of sporting weapons and military trophies bought back by the family from various wars. My favorite being the beautiful collection of swords and cross bows.

The south terrace gave us splendid views of Mount's Bay and the fabulous terrace gardens way way way below. On the north terrace Mr St Aubyn was entertaining a guest, giving a long winded speech about his in family.

The weather changed very quickly and we had to change our plans slightly. Rain or snow I had to visit the Minack Theatre. Ian stayed in the car writing postcards with his thermos of coffee, I put on all the warm clothes on that I could find.

Minack in Cornish means 'A rocky place'. From 1931 until she died in 1983 the Minack Theatre was planned, built and financed by one amazing woman ~ Rowena Cade. Joseph Wright was Rownea Cade's great great grandfather. She appeared to be everything I wish I could be, artistic, imaginative, contented, self reliable, genteel and strong.

It didn't feel right to visit the "minack' when there wasn't a play being performed. It seemed so empty ~ unreal. The view was simply magnificent. My dream play would be to watch the "Tempest "being performed here. Watching the sight of the moon rising over the black cloth of ocean would be a never to be forgotten experience.

We carried on our journey to Land's End and up the west coast heading for St Ives. This drive was spectacular ~ the remote Cornish landscape dotted with relics of the tin mine industry, picturesque fishing villages and pre historic remains. I could understand how this beauty combined with the clarity of light has attracted artists since the late 19th century.

We decided to stop and visit the Geevor Tin Mine, since Ian's ancestors were from that background. We went on an underground tour into the Wheal Mexico. This was an abandoned mine concealed from the world until it was rediscovered in 1992.

Following the guide into a very narrow small claustrophobic 18th century tunnel, it was very exciting. The guide related to us stories of the hard life of the old tin miners. They were lucky to live to the age of 27, never got paid unless tin was produced, sometimes going days even weeks without a mineral lead. Stories of the traditional pasty and of the 'knockers' were fascinating.

Stopping afterwards for something to eat in the "Count House" cafe and enjoyed the magnificent view of Cornwall's' coastline ~what an amazing day!

Having a quick tour around St Ive's we decided to leave it for another day. We headed home.

Penzance ~ 29 September 2002

Last night we stayed in a lovely B.B in Penzance. We both feel very relaxed and happy. It was run by a very nice couple and we had a lovely full English breakfast to start the day.

Penzance is a lovely town with a typical English seaside resort feeling. We were intrigued with the pool/sea bath on the sea front. We could imagine men and women swimming in their bloomers and swimming caps ~ 1930s style.

Somehow we ended up in a church service at the parish of St Mary's with St Paul. An interesting but unusual experience of monk style chanting, burning of incense and repetitive prayers. We quickly made an exit stage left when they all started going up the front to take part in communion ~ but if was quite an experience.

Later that afternoon we drove out to Lizard Point. The best part of this trip so far has been the lack of tourists. Everywhere has a much more relaxed and laid back feel to it. We strolled though the village down to the Lizard, a beautiful afternoon and just like the rest of the Cornish coast absolutely beautiful!

On the way back to Penzance we made a detour to the Chysauster Ancient Village. This iron age village is made up of a series of eight stone houses, each containing a number of rooms, around an open court. Some rooms had stones where herbs or flour had been grounded. One room had a fire place. It was surrounded by a surviving stone wall, still in very good condition. The houses appeared to be laid out in a 'street' style.

That evening we went to Mousehole (pronounced 'Mouzel') It is a very pretty fishing village with clusters of cottages hugging the harbour. Very narrow streets ~ a nightmare during the holiday season I would imagine.

Tired but happy we retired to our lovely room at the B.B, bellies filled with a traditional Sunday carvery.

South Cornwall ~ 28 Septmeber 2002

We have four days off from work ~ what bliss! We work all week just to look forward to having some days off to explore this amazing country. Our plans this time is to stay local and head down south Cornwall. Our first stop being an investigation of Ian's family history.

Ian's great, great grandfather ~ Thomas Vincent was born in a small village called Illogan, just out of Redruth. He was a copper tin miner and married Ann Carthew in the local parish church. Our mission was to find their gravestones in the parish cemetery. We found the church without any problems, luckily there was a working bee in progress so the easiest way was to ask. The 'morning tea lady' couldn't do more to help us. While making coffee and offering us biscuits one of the men looked in the burial records for us. Unfortunately without success. The early records were kept in Truro, but he gave us a general area where they may be buried. Time was ticking ~ we had made arrangements to meet great uncle Peter at 12.00 and we had to leave it for another day. We carried onto Hayle to meet my relatives ~ Peter and Fran Searle.

Peter and Fran live in a lovely two storied bungalow with a beautiful garden. I was met by Fran, a very friendly relaxed lady. Peter was more of a reserved character. He didn't remind me much of Granddad Ted in anyway in looks or in sound. But he did have the famous 'Searle hands', big and strong. We had a beautiful lunch with the relatives. Steve and his wife Liz and two children. Theresa and her two children, all very well behaved and pleasant.

After lunch we went for a walk along the coast to Godrevy Island where there was a lighthouse. Across the bay we could see St Ives in the distance. Peter and Fran were interested in bird watching while Steve and the rest of the family enjoyed the walk. After a cup of tea we left them for Penzance. We enjoyed our visit very much, meeting family I never know I had.

Bath ~ 10 September 2002

We left London at 10 am. We were pleased with ourselves in our ability to leave the city without too much hassle. We drove on the main highway for an hour or so before we got bored of the scenery. We took a left and ended up in Wiltshire. We passed Silbury Hill. It took us by great surprise. It's so obviously man made ~ it rises abruptly from the surrounding fields. Being one of the largest artificial hills in Europe, constructed in around 2500 BC ~ it's purpose being a mystery.

Carrying on until we reached Bath. Bath is a very beautiful city. Very cultured with many artistic and theatrical events happening around you. When you are in Bath the 'must' is of course the "Roman Baths". We were quite taken with it all. The baths give off a very cleansing, relaxed atmosphere, holding hands with history and tradition. A very spiritual place. The displays and models gave you the feeling of the splendor this place once held for the people. Very interesting and enjoyable. once again you could spend a few days here exploring all the sites.

We had to carry on home ~ driving through Glastonbury. We were intrigued with the Glastonbury Abbey and the tor, things yet to explored on another day.

British Museum ~ 9 September 2002

We spent the night back at the George IV pub with Antony, same old faces. Ant wasn't motivated to do any site seeing with us, so we decided to got to the British Museum.

The museum contains a vast collection of antiquities from all around the world. We only had the stamina to explore the ancient Egypt, Roman and Greek section of the museum. There was just so much to take in. There was a splendid collection of Egyptian mummies, statues and sculptures. Beautiful Greek statues, the Rosetta Stone....just too much....we exhausted ourselves! We will have to go back to the the Celtic/Roman displays and the famous "Reading Room" another day.

The weather was terrible ~ down pours of rain and very cold. We warmed ourselves up with our favorite Thai Green curry at the "Old Pack Horse" pub back in Chiswick.

Dartmoor ~ 8 September 2002

We have taken three days off work to go up to London to see Antony [Ian's brother] who is flying to New York on September 11th for a pilgrimage. Wanting to take the scenic route we drove through Dartmoor.

Dartmoor is a wild beautiful place with bleak daunting tors, very relaxed sheep and lovely wild ponies who are very friendly. The ponies are mostly interested in food than anything else, but would put up with a scratch behind the ears for a nibble. The day we visited was a lovely warm sunny autumn day with the pink heather in full bloom, but I can imagine this place wild, mist sodden, bleak, and isolated on an aerie winters day. I would love to spend a few days here one day.

Arthur Conan Doyle's thriller "The hound of the Baskervilles" was set here on Dartmoor. A lot of history makes it's presence known ~ prehistoric remains, sites where bronze age huts can be found, a fascinating place.

We then carried onto Salisbury. Salisbury Cathedral was an awe inspiring site as we drove into the city. It was built in 1220-1258. I love looking at the Constable painting compared with he modern photograph.

Being a Sunday, services were being held. We were treated by the organ playing ~ we wanted to clap and shout an encore as it finished, it was just amazing.

Stonehenge will have to wait another day. You could spend days around this area, but we were expected in London by tonight.

Bodmin & Wenford Railway ~ Lanhydrock ~ 28 August 2002

We returned to Bodmin today to visit the Bodmin Railway. Mum and Dad had mentioned how they had seen a TV programme back home set in Bodmin and a scene which stood out was the Bodmin Station. They said they could imagine me standing on the platform, so I had to see it for myself.

They have tried to keep the station in period by displaying piles of old suitcases stacked on trolleys and hanging baskets of flowers. It was rather pretty.

We took a ride on the steam train which took us to Bodmin Parkway. We sat in a 1930s style coach with personal compartments that could sit 4-6 people. We got off at Bodmin Parkway and walked to Lanhydrock house.

Lanhydrock has a magnificent entrance and grounds. The formal gardens were lovely and peaceful. We feel very special when we present our New Zealand Historic Places Trust card to the National Trust. The staff are always so pleasant and pleased to see us.

The house was huge. Unlike previous estates we have visited, we were free to walk around on our own rather than taking a guided tour which can become rather boring at times.

The best thing inside the house was the many kitchens, pantries and food preparation areas. The kitchen had a huge spit which was used to cook large joints of meat.

The National Trust houses stand out from the privately owned homes. The displays are very

professional and interesting. A wonderful visit!

Bodmin Jail ~ 27 August 2002

Today we visited Bodmin Jail. Our first encounter was driving up towards the menacing stone building and entrance way. A huge, mainly empty and decaying shell of a once hell for many prisoners.

We stood on the site where many prisoners were hung for insignificant crimes. We could even see where the rope had made a groove in the wooden beam up above.

Inside it was dark, damp and smelly. You could feel what an awful and terrifying place it once would have been.

King Arthur's Stone ~ 21 August 2002

Today we visited "King Arthur's Stone" at Camlann ~ Slaughter Bridge, Camelford. This is a 6th century inscribed stone that marks the legendary site where Arthur and Mordred met for the battle which ended both lives and the end of the fellowship of the round table in Ad 537.

There also was a Saxon battle here. Tennyson visited here in 1848 and was inspired to write the "Idylls of the King".

Boscastle ~ 14 August 2002

Today we drove up to Boscastle. We arrived early before many of the tourists arrived. We enjoyed a cup of coffee in the village before we set off on a six mile walk which took us along the coastal path ~ giving us fantastic views of Boscastle Harbour and Pentargon inlet.

We crossed inland along farms until we got to St Juliot's Church. It was here where Thomas Hardy met his first wife, Emma Gifford while supervising the restoration of the church. Here, he was inspired to write "A pair of blue eyes". Emma encouraged Hardy to leave his profession as an architect and turn to writing full time.

We had our picnic lunch here before travelling back to Boscastle through Valency Valley. This was an unspoilt valley owned by the National Trust. We returned to Boscastle tired but very full filled. Cornwall is very beautiful.

Screech Owl Sanctuary ~ 6th August 2002

This afternoon we went to the "Screech" Owl Sanctuary. "Screech" being the owners sir name! It was a wonderful visit. We saw owls small as kittens and as big as dogs. Such amazing and fascinating creatures. Very intelligent with a 'knowing' look about them ~ powerful and rather magical!

We were allowed to stroke their breast feathers and every now and then one would try to escape, displaying their long powerful wing span. You could feel the force of their wings on your face. One of the owls reminded me of Toad grumpy face [my cat I left back home in New Zealand] with huge round yellow/orange eyes glaring at me.

Historic Bodmin Moor ~ 31 July 2002

We had a fantastic time today. The weather was cold, raining, misty and magical. We visited the Bodmin Moor and the weather was just perfect!

This place is a world of granite tors and windswept open moors. We walked to the "Hurlers", three large pre-historic stone circles and burial chambers - built over 4000 years ago.

The "Cheesewring" is a natural occurring granite rock pile precariously on top of each - absolutely fascinating.

We then carried on up to the A30 which took us down through Bodmin Moor. We stopped at Dozmary Pool where legend has it Excalibur was returned to the Lady of the Lake. There we were entertained by a beautiful brown horse which made our visit so much more special.

Cold and tired we had to stop at the Jamaica Inn for a beer. It was exciting - being the scene for Daphne Du Maurier's famous book. I'm totally inspired to read the book now, I will source a copy from the local 2nd hand book shop in town.

Carnglaze Slate Caverns ~ 30 July 2002

Ever since we have been in Cornwall we have been fascinated by the beauty of the slate buildings and walls. We now had the chance to see where it all came from. Carnglaze consists of three underground caverns set in a beautiful wooded hillside near Liskeard. We had a 45 minute tour which took us through the caverns, one being of Cathedral proportions. We also saw a subterranean lake with crystal clear blue/green water. It's absolutely amazing to think that this had been hand created by local slate minors over centuries.

The only dampener on the day was locking our car keys inside the car. Thankfully we met some very nice people who went well out of their way to help us. Kim and her three children and the R.C.A. man couldn't have done more for us. After two hours we finally drove home with our tail between our legs. Could been worse, but thank goodness for kind and good people.

Eden Project ~ 23 July 2002

Today we visited the Eden Project. We weren't too sure what to expect but we did expect a lot of tourists, long lines and an expense. I wasn't quite that bad - it covered such a huge area the crowds didn't really make an impact.

Eden was rather impressive, beautiful garden art and sculpture, educational displays, we discovered plants that we had never seen before and it had a strange futuristic feel about it. It's all about understanding our place in nature and the opportunities on offer.

The Eden Project, near St Austell, is designed not only to display plants from around the world, but to protect endangered species and demonstrate the relationship between plants and man. Opened in 2001, it covers 125 acres and houses 4000 species of plants in giant domes. The largest conservatory is 200 metres long by 55 metres in height and is constructed from 800 huge steel hexagons.

It was a precious, impressive and an amazing visit.

Pencarrow ~ 17 July 2002

Unfortunately the managing job at Wilmington job didn't come through for us. The owners wanted a long term manager to run his pub and we are only planning to stay in the country for six months. We will probably stick it out in Padstow, it's long hours but it's central to many places we want to visit.

Today we went into Wadebridge to catch up with emails from home. Wadebridge is a nice little town, laid back with interesting shops and friendly people.

Afterwards we visited Pencarrow House and gardens. This is a Georgian house belonging to the Molesworth - St Aubyn family. It is a grand museum dedicated to the family's history. The family has strong connections to Wellington in New Zealand, ie - Pencarrow Head and Molesworth Street in New Zealand. We recognised instantly an old map of Wellington Harbor displayed on the wall, all very fascinating.

Clovelly ~ 9 July 2002

After Tintagel we drove up to Clovelly, a small fishing village in Devon which has also given into the tourist trade. We paid three pounds each and we entered into a village lost in time. Small and narrow cobbled roads, white washed cottages, sweet little harbour with a very old stone quay.

We met two lovely donkeys named "Noah" and "Kiwi". Being such a lovely place it was spoilt by the tourist industry. It had a slight feeling of a theme park which was a little sad, but I suppose without it places like Tintagel and Clovelly could not exist.

We then carried on to Crediton. It was lovely to see Bett and Arthur again. We stayed the night and drove on to Wilmington to see about a job. I'm happy to be back in Devon again.

Tintagel ~ 9 July 2002

This week we decided to go back to Devon to visit Aunt Bett and Arthur in Crediton and also look at a job in Wilmington at an old pub.

We took the long way round and stopped at Tintagel Castle and the old Tintagel Post Office. We were able to use our New Zealand Historic Places Trust card at the old post office [a thoughtful farewell gift from Ian's parents]

The old post office was a fourteenth century manor house and was used as a post office in the Victorian times. The wood reeked of history complimented by beautiful gardens.

We then walked down to Tintagel Castle. I wasn't totally sure what to expect. Not a lot of the castle was left and unfortunately it's a losing battle. The sea and weather is slowly chewing away at the castle bit by bit. There was enough castle left to get some idea of this fortress on this magnificent site. This part of the coast is so breath taking.

We stood on the banks which are covered in beautiful wild flowers watching the wild sea crashing against the cliffs. It reminded us a little of the West Coast in New Zealand, except you were against a back drop of an ancient castle.

The village of Tintagel have surrendered itself to tourism and has turned itself into the famed birthplace of King Arthur. The beauty of the coastline was more special to me than this connection.